Tiwi Beach Mombasa
Tiwi Beach is a paradise for those who want untouched white sands free of crowds and large resorts. It is essentially cottage country and is ideal for those who want to do their own cooking with fresh catch from local fishermen and vegetables and fruits from nearby orchards.
Just north of Diani Beach on Mombasa’s South Coast and 17km south of Likoni ferry, Tiwi Beach is relatively isolated. It lacks the commercial restaurants, bars, nightlife and shopping seen along the coast. However, this relative isolation is deemed advantageous by some and regular clientele of the several cottages on the beach turn up year after year.
The wide sandy beach is fringed with coconut palms and is relatively free of harassment from beach boys. A coral reef offshore provides excellent snorkeling opportunities at high tide, especially at the northern end of the beach.
Aside from three resorts, one of which is being renovated after a recent fire, the preferred accommodation is the beach cottages which are highly popular with Kenyan families over school holidays such as Easter, Christmas and July and August. Advance bookings for these periods are highly recommended.
There are two roads which run to Tiwi Beach from the main South Coast Highway. The one on the north is a sandy track which leads to the Sand Island, Maweni and Capricho Beach Cottages. Just 1.5km further south is a wider road which can be driven on even in rain. However, it is strongly encouraged not to walk along these trails for security reasons and you can either call ahead for a taxi to pick you up or wait at the junction for one to drive by.
Most of the cottages have kitchens so you can prepare your own meals. There are 10 Capricho cottages which are well designed with vaulted ceilings and plenty of space. Their guests have access to a pool or their own private stretch of beach just steps away from the fully equipped cottages. You can have your own chef to handle the cooking.
The same applies to Maweni Cottages which are run by the same management and with advance notice, you can hire the services of a cook. Maweni is a collection of 30 fairly simple cottages on Tiwi Beach with either stunning views of the Indian Ocean or exotic flowers and plants. There is a restaurant on the premises for those who do not want to cook and guests can swim in the pool at the Capricho Cottages. Both places have cottages with one to three bedrooms.
On a palm-shaded stretch of beach are the stand-alone 2-bedroom Coral Cove Cottages. Here you can enjoy a low-key and laidback atmosphere. The shallow water off the beach is good for kids and turtles come up to the beach to lay eggs. Vendors call daily with fish, fruit and vegetables and a cook who doubles up as a housekeeper can be arranged. There are 5 one-bedroom cottages as well on the grounds.
The Sand Island Cottages are sea-facing fully equipped cottages. Long a popular holiday destination, the water here is safe for swimming at all times and snorkeling equipment is provided free. Cottages sleep between 2-6 people and a nearby citrus orchard provides fresh fruit daily.
The former Tiwi Beach Resort is being rebuilt after a recent fire and will be renamed Amani Tiwi Beach Resort on its re-opening. Twiga Lodge was the original choice of budget travelers in the 1970’s and has basic and superior rooms as well as a campsite for those who desire to set up a tent on the beach. There is a restaurant, bar and convenience store on the site.